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How to replace rear brake pads (XT660R/X)

 
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matt_not_andrew
XT-125 Rider
XT-125 Rider


Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 191
Location: Towcester, Northants (previously Cape Town)

PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 22:42 pm    Post subject: How to replace rear brake pads (XT660R/X) Reply with quote

Rear brake pad change for the XT660R/X

NOTE: This is how I change MY brake pads. I take responsibility for the work I do on MY bike and YOU should take responsibility for the work YOU do on YOURS. If you want peace of mind please have a qualified mechanic carry out the maintenance on your bike.

Tools required for the job:
EBC Pads = 15 from Hein Gericke
Rubber mallet
Spanners for rear axle
Spanner for axle adjusters
Copper grease
Lithium grease
Pliers
Tapping tool (allen key or allen drive)
Clutch and brake cleaner
WD40


The Yamaha manual states to replace the rear pads when they reach 1mm thickness. It�s a little difficult to check them as only the fronts have wear grooves. Mine looked like this:



Place the bike on a suitable stand (either centre or rear axle stand). Annoyingly the brake calliper is not bolted to the swing-arm. It bolts straight to the axle-bolt which means the rear wheel has to come off to replace the pads. You will find the Rubber mallet comes in handy for removing the axle bolt. Try supporting the wheel underneath with something to make it easier.




Make sure you keep an eye on the spacers on either side of the wheel.


Lift the calliper up � you can leave it connected to the bike to change the brake pads. Give it a clean with some clutch and brake cleaner. Remove the plastic cover from the calliper.


Remove the pad clip from the brake calliper.


The Yamaha manual says to measure the pad thickness but I never heard of anyone who actually removes their pads to measure them � if they look worn then you can be sure that it�s best to change them ASAP cause a new disc costs more than some pads!


Gently push the brake calliper piston in with your (clean) fingers.



Put some copper grease on the rear of the pads and the guide pin and fit the pads in the calliper with the pin holding them in place.


Using a suitable tap tool (1/2 drive allen key in this case), gently tap the pin back into the calliper till you can see the clip hole.


Copper grease the clip and reinsert it into the pin locking it into place.


Separate the brake pads so that the disc will fit between the pads (this was the reason for pushing the piston back into the calliper.


Before refitting the calliper and wheel, check your brake fluid level. Mine was over the limit so a little bleeding was in order. You can skip the bleeding step (I have with other bikes when the level was ok at this point) but that�s your choice.


To bleed the brakes, prise off the rubber cover from the bleed nipple and fit a pipe to it. Gently slacken the nut on the calliper and then prise the pads apart again. Catch the excess brake fluid in something (it is corrosive). Retighten the nipple nut and remove the tube. Recover the nipple. (Ignore the black stuff in the container in the photo � I use the same bakkie to catch the cleaning fluid when I clean the chain. Your brake fluid should not be black!)
Also note that I bled my brakes after putting the wheel and calliper back on the bike as the picture shows. I recommend bleeding BEFORE putting the wheel back.


Now you will need either 3 hands or be able to work like a monkey (using your feet and hands) to put the wheel, brake calliper, spacers and axle bolt (time for lithium grease) back together on the swing-arm. Again, try supporting the wheel with something. Make sure that the swing-arm guide slots into the recess on the calliper before tightening up the axle bolt.
Take some time to adjust and lube your chain. Spray the inside of the swing-arm with WD40 and lithium up the chain adjusters. Be sure to double lock the chain adjuster double nuts. Tighten the axle bolt. Replace the plastic guard on the calliper (again, lithium grease time)

Finished



Final note: I know my bike is a little dirty - it's not been washed for a week but I promise to give it a little TLC tomorrow morning after I do the oil change
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Theo
XT-660 Rider
XT-660 Rider


Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 858
Location: HELLAS REEEEEE

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great post !!!


EXCELLENT JOB MATE !!!

respect !!!
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Lady P
Likes It Pink
Likes It Pink


Joined: 04 Mar 2006
Posts: 1546
Location: Peterborough

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I agree with you there Theo, fantastic post. Thank you. I just hope parker doesnt expect me to change my pads now..... Shocked
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Parker
YZ-250 Rider
YZ-250 Rider


Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 262
Location: Peterborough

PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 0:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you had better get your spanners out.
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matt_not_andrew
XT-125 Rider
XT-125 Rider


Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 191
Location: Towcester, Northants (previously Cape Town)

PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 14:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to do the front ones in the next couple of months - Lady P will have no excuse!

Might also do a full bike strip down - well, plastics, tank, exhaust at least - the pics may come in handy to anyone needing to do some maintenance.

Thanks for making it sticky - should prove handy if anyone else can make a walk thru post of any work they do on the bike if they have the time.
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TarmacTerrorist
PW-50 Rider
PW-50 Rider


Joined: 10 Nov 2006
Posts: 97

PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 15:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very detailed guide - good write up. Very Happy
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golis
YZ-250 Rider
YZ-250 Rider


Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 287
Location: Hellas - Athens

PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 17:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great walk through !
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Parker
YZ-250 Rider
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Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 262
Location: Peterborough

PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 19:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And just to add to a good thread, when you have fitted new brake pads take a little time bedding them in with not too much harsh braking for a start, as the new pads will get too hot and glaze over and go hard this will then in turn bring a quick end to your disc.
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matt_not_andrew
XT-125 Rider
XT-125 Rider


Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 191
Location: Towcester, Northants (previously Cape Town)

PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 19:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point Parker - always best to run them in so to speak!
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fruitbat
Newbie


Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 22
Location: rotherham

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 20:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow mat dont you ever clean your bike lol
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matt_not_andrew
XT-125 Rider
XT-125 Rider


Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 191
Location: Towcester, Northants (previously Cape Town)

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 22:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fruitbat, in my defence, I didn't wash the bike for a week and I had just returned from a trip up north visiting my family - the bike had about 600 salty miles on it.

Usually I try to clean it every weekend but since it's my only transport it gets used in all weathers!

Bit cleaner now tho - but now that I have 2 bikes in the garage I find myself spending almost all weekend in the garage Very Happy
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fruitbat
Newbie


Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 22
Location: rotherham

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 22:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

u or my kind of biker some ppl have to have the sun up for there bikes to come out i have a car but i still get the bike out in all weathers some times its more fun in the rain
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matt_not_andrew
XT-125 Rider
XT-125 Rider


Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 191
Location: Towcester, Northants (previously Cape Town)

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 23:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers fruitbat -
wet is best wait till I post some pics of this weekends run.

I'm taking the DRZ out for a 100mile trail ride in the Northants mud! Should be fun - last time I had to stop in a trickle of water that came over my knees!
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fruitbat
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Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 22
Location: rotherham

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 19:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

matt_not_andrew wrote:
cheers fruitbat -
wet is best wait till I post some pics of this weekends run.

I'm taking the DRZ out for a 100mile trail ride in the Northants mud! Should be fun - last time I had to stop in a trickle of water that came over my knees!



i want to get my xt off road for a play one day
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matt_not_andrew
XT-125 Rider
XT-125 Rider


Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 191
Location: Towcester, Northants (previously Cape Town)

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 20:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fruitbat - you will need some knobblies at the very least but you should enjoy yourself.

I made a post somewhere about what mods I made to the XT before trailing it. If you are serious about trailing regularly then I can only recommend getting a spare bike like I did.

We went out yesterday in Northants and it rained constantly. The lanes were muddy and slippery and I dropped the DRZ twice. I had some new tyres put on the DRZ on saturday and they helped a lot.
Lanes that were taking me 20 minutes last year on the XT were taking 5 on the lighter DRZ. Suffice to say the bug has bitten and having a spare bike is by far the best way to trail an XT!
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